Seeking great cappuccino in Nice

No matter how perfect a place might seem, there is always an “if only”. For a long time in Nice, mine was “if only the coffee were better”. This might sound surprising given that Nice is barely 30 minutes down the coast from Italy, where coffee is more of a religion than a drink. The centuries-old Italian savoir-faire has not crossed the border in a consistent way, and specialty or “third-wave” coffee shops — which are often dismissed as hipster hangouts, but invest in serious machines and boutique beans — have yet to make many inroads here.

Happily things are changing, even if it is at a leisurely southern French kind of pace. As a once-a-day coffee drinker I can’t afford to make a mistake when choosing a café for my daily espresso or cappuccino: a badly made brew can ruin my mood for the rest of the morning. When I set out to write this piece I thought the pickings were slim in Nice compared to other similar-sized cities, but as I went from place to place sipping cappuccino and snapping photos, I was pleasantly surprised at the improvement over the past year. Some things you might take for granted in other cities, such as non-dairy alternatives, are still a rarity: progress happens one day at a time!

I chose to test cappuccino rather than espresso even though the milk to some extent masks the flavor of the beans. Partly I did this for selfish reasons — in winter I crave its creaminess, and it seems to leave me less jumpy than an espresso or noisette, the French equivalent of macchiato. I also think that cappuccino is a good overall test of the barista’s skill, knowledge and ability to choose the right beans (as well as milk). Plus, latte art shows care for the coffee-making craft and personal attention to the customer.

Here are my favorites, in order of price. Before visiting any of these cafés, check the opening hours, which can be quirky and change with the seasons.

Sapore di Pane
10 avenue Félix Faure

With a central location facing the Coulée Verte park, Sapore di Pane feels like a little slice of Italy. The specialty here is focaccia, which they serve in savory or sweet versions (think banana and Nutella). The interior is a little stark, but the friendly staff — particularly Stefano, who is there almost every day — provide the warmth, as does the terrace which gets the sun from mid-morning. Most of the time the cappuccino would pass Italian inspection, though just occasionally something goes wrong, whether it’s the temperature of the milk or the concentration of coffee. For €2.90, it’s still reliable enough for me to stop in often.

Things I love: It feels like Italy, with coffee to match.
If only: It were perfect every time (but what is?).

Cafés Indien
35 rue Pairolière and 2 bis rue Sainte-Réparate

Established in the Old Town in 1925, this family-run coffee roaster is a place with history. Younger generation Jean-François has an obvious passion for coffee, and has also shown a talent for branding, drawing the shop’s new logo. Jean-François roasts the beans weekly at the Sainte-Réparate branch, and the staff have all been trained to produce consistent cappuccino (€3.30) with a loving touch of latte art. It’s a little on the milky side, so will appeal if you normally enjoy latte. The Pairolière branch has more seating, but check the opening hours before you go to either shop as they close for lunch.

Things I love: The freshly roasted beans, the latte art, the friendly staff who treat regulars like family.
If only: The cappuccino were a little less milky (ask for a double shot of espresso); they were open all day.

Marinette
13 rue Colonna dIstria

Tucked away behind the Cathédrale Sainte Réparate in the Old Town, Marinette has a loyal clan of followers, both local and international. Serving bistro food at lunch and generous cakes the rest of the time, they brew their coffee using beans from Café Indien (see above). Though I don’t go often enough to vouch for its consistency, their cappuccino (€3.50) was one of the best I tried, the flavor of the freshly ground coffee shining through. Marinette attracts a breakfast crowd and closes its doors at 11am in preparation for lunch, so it can be tricky to get a table.

Things I love: The cute interior with painted tiles and wooden tables, the tempting cakes, the pretty cups, the well-made cappuccino.
If only: They didn’t shut people out between 11am and noon.

Café Paulette (pictured at the top of this post)
15 rue Bonaparte

There are cafés aplenty in rue Bonaparte, but Café Paulette stands out for its attention to the quality of its coffee. The beans come from Coutume Café in Paris, and the Instagram-friendly cappuccino is presented on a wooden tray with a little cake and a glass of water. Though perfectly good, at €4 it was the priciest cappuccino I had outside the airport. If you prefer a stronger coffee flavor, order the flat white (€4.50) with an extra shot of espresso.

Things I love: the Paris-style terrace and pretty interior; the beautifully presented coffee.
If only: It were a tiny bit cheaper.

Joe and the Juice
Nice Airport, Terminals 1 and 2

I rarely fly from Nice airport without first grabbing a coffee from the Nice branch of this international chain of coffee shops. The place certainly has its flaws: the staff often seem distracted (to put it gently), the tables are not wiped often enough, and they seem to run out of things mysteriously (no croissants, pains au chocolat or muffins by 8am on my last visit), but I have never been disappointed with the cappuccino (€4). Non-dairy alternatives are available if cow’s milk isn’t your thing. 

Things I love: A good cappuccino before a flight, the upbeat ambiance.
If only: They were more organized.